La Paella

214 E. Ninth St. New York, NY10003 Phone (212) 598-4321	Spanish E. Village $$

Dark, crowded and loud, La Paella is like an American's fantasy of a Spanish tapas bar and includes the basic tapas repertory, like thick wedges of Manchego cheese with apple slices, delicate rounds of cold marinated squid and a puffy potato omelet. About 20 selections — sort of an introduction to tapas — are available each day, and almost all are very good, but it's best to order a chef's selection, a plate with enough to feed three people. The paellas are rich, full of flavor and enormous. For dessert, the crema catalana is so good that the owner should consider naming the restaurant after this dish instead.

-The New York Times